The Bahamas

Patricia Lamb

With their palm-fringed, pink- and white-sand beaches, warm turquoise waters and balmy breezes, the islands of the Bahamas are a romantic, tropical getaway close to home. And these sun-drenched islands -about 700 of them-lie only 50 miles off the Florida coast.

The Gulf Stream and tradewinds help maintain the islands' consistently warm air and water temperature. You've probably seen some of the Bahamas' spectacular scenery at your neighborhood movie theater as backdrop for such feature films as Silence of the Lambs, Cocoon I and II, Flipper, Splash, Jaws the Revenge and Speed 2.

Besides natural beauty and great weather, this popular year-round destination offers the visitor romance and Colonial charm. Besides soaking up the sun, you can choose from a variety of activities ranging from nightclub dancing to shark diving. The islands are also a shopper's paradise, offering native handicrafts and duty-free imported goods. The U.S. dollar is widely accepted and is equal in value to the Bahamian dollar.

During the 1760's, George Washington traveled to the Bahamas, referring to them as "Isles of Perpetual June."

You will enjoy sampling tasty Bahamian cuisine, which combines local ingredients with Caribbean herbs and spices. Fresh seafood such as conch (pronounced "konk"), grouper, kingfish, wahoo and dolphin (not porpoise, but a different kind of ocean fish) is an excellent choice. Also, try these local specialties: peas 'n' rice, johnnycake (pan-fried bread) and guava duff (a sweet, pudding-like dessert.) Locally distilled rum is a key ingredient in popular drinks such as the "Goombay Smash" and the "Bahama Mama."

The Bahamas boasts a higher standard of living than neighboring islands, yet it is no more expensive for visitors. It has an excellent infrastructure of roads, ferries and water-taxis, making it easy to travel within and between islands. Years of British rule have left behind a legacy of colorful Colonial buildings, English as the official language, a parliamentary system of government and the tradition of driving on the left-hand side of the road.

Lucayan Indians first settled the islands during the ninth century. In 1492, Christopher Columbus made his first landfall in the New World in the Bahamas. Soon, Spanish conquistadors followed in the pursuit of gold. When the Spaniards failed to settle here, England claimed the islands. With the Bahamas' strategic location, they became a haven for pirates, Civil War-era Confederate blockade-runners, and later, during Prohibition, bootleggers and rumrunners.

After the American Revolution, Loyalist refugees fled to the Bahamas, importing slavery with them. The islands then passed back and forth between England and Spain, with England reclaiming them in 1783. In 1834, the British Emancipation Act abolished slavery in the islands. In 1973, the Commonwealth of the Bahamas declared its independence after almost 250 years of British Colonial rule.

Nassau, the capital of the Commonwealth, is located on New Providence Island. This is a city rich in history, personality and Colonial charm. It also offers a wide range of watersports, shopping, fine dining, museums and casinos, and is a major port-of-call for cruise ships. Here, horse-drawn surreys clip-clop past stately old homes and public buildings, taking visitors for leisurely town tours. Dignified police officers, smartly dressed in white starched jackets and pit helmets, direct traffic.

Be sure to stroll down historic Bay Street, a busy, one-way thoroughfare with narrow, flowery side streets and hidden arcades. Watch the locals go about their daily business, and check out the Pirate Museum (admission $12; open seven days a week). Bay Street also has some of the best shopping around. You can find good prices on everything from name-brand luxury items-perfume, china, crystal, linens, jewelry, watches, leather goods and liquor-to inexpensive souvenirs and mementos.

Like to bargain? Head to Bay Street's famous Straw Market. Destroyed by fire two years ago, it has relocated and is back in business seven days a week from early morning until evening. Here, you can negotiate with local vendors on the best prices for handmade mats, bags, hats and baskets, as well as fabrics, jewelry, woodcarvings and edible treats.

Fort Charlotte, complete with moat and dungeons, is the largest fortress in the Bahamas. Climb on the ramparts for a great view of the surrounding city. Parliament Square is the center of government and houses pretty pastel buildings dating back to the early 1800's. Especially noteworthy here are the Houses of Parliament, the Supreme Court and a marble statue of Queen Victoria.

Then, take a royal climb up the Queen's Staircase, a famous Nassau landmark. It consists of 66 steps, one for each year of Queen Victoria's reign, and leads to Fort Fincastle. The staircase is said to have been carved out of the sandstone cliffs by slaves at the end of the 18th century. Ardastra Gardens and Zoo showcase hundreds of exotic birds, mammals and reptiles, and feature trained flamingoes, the Bahamian national bird.

Nassau's Cable Beach, sometimes referred to as the Bahamian Riviera, was named for a transatlantic cable laid in 1907, connecting the Bahamas to Jupiter, Florida. It's a tropical playground, home to plush resorts and casinos, as well as smaller hotels and inns. Glamorous Paradise Island lies a short bridge crossing or water-taxi ride from downtown Nassau. "PI" is home to the Versailles Gardens, with their serene, elegant fountains, statues, terraces and cloisters. Originally built by Augustinian monks during the 14th century, the cloisters were shipped to the islands 600 years later and rebuilt there, stone by stone.

The wildest time of year is Junkanoo, the Bahamian version of Carnival. Festivities begin with pre-dawn parades along the street, and competing groups wear vividly colored, elaborately crafted costumes. These teams parade through town to the sounds of goatskin drums, whistles and bells. If you can't be in the Bahamas during this two-day celebration (December 26 and January 1) be sure to visit the Junkanoo Expo, where you can view the festival's colorful art and costumes

Grand Bahama Island is the fourth largest island in the Bahamas, and the second most popular tourist destination. During the 1950's, a Virginia financier developed the modern planned cities of Freeport and Lucaya. With its luxury resorts and casinos, Grand Bahama Island attracts top-name entertainers and has been called the "New World Riviera."

You can shop 'til you drop at Grand Bahama Island's International Bazaar, a collection of 90 shops and 13 restaurants that recreate Paris, Spain, the Greek Isles and other exotic locales. The Port Lucaya Marketplace, a 12-acre shopping, dining and entertainment complex on the waterfront, offers even more opportunities to pick up duty-free bargains and features evening dancing and local entertainment in Count Basie Square.

Tennis aficionados will find more than 50 courts, some with night lighting. And Grand Bahama Island is also a duffer's delight: golfers have a choice of four championship 18-hole fairways, plus a challenging nine-hole course designed by some of the world's best golf architects.

Anyone for fishing? Anglers visiting the island hoping to catch "the big one" are seldom disappointed. Grand Bahama Island's tropical waters are home to some of the best game fish in the world. Fighters lurking offshore include kingfish, wahoo, bonito, dolphin, tuna and marlin.

Fly-fishing, especially for bonefish, is a fast-growing sport on Grand Bahama Island-and throughout the other islands. The bonefish, extremely difficult to catch and an amazingly aggressive fighter when hooked, is considered one of the most challenging game fish on Earth. Bone fishermen have special praise for the great catches available in the flats off Deep Water Cay (pronounced "key") in the Eastern part of the island and the Old Bahama Flats off West End.

With three nature reserves and an abundance of deserted beaches, the island also offers abundant opportunities for active adventures and ecotourism. You can sea kayak through mangroves and along the ocean shoreline, dive with sharks, snorkel and ride mountain bikes and/or horses. In addition, the South Shore has more than 60 identified scuba-diving sites, including two popular humanmade "wrecks." Grand Bahama Island's Lucayan National Park boasts the world's largest explored underwater cave system in the world.

Besides Nassau/Paradise Island and Grand Bahama, the Out Islands of the Bahamas are known for their clear waters, pristine beaches, watersports and game fishing. Some of the principal Out Islands include the Abacos, a cluster of islands lying "at the top of the Bahamas." This island group is known for its seafaring traditions. Try to visit the candy-cane red and white striped lighthouse on Elbow Cay, one of the Bahamas' few remaining kerosene fueled, hand-turned beacons.

Other points of interest in the Abacos include the 20,500-acre Bahama Parrot Reserve, the only major natural habitat for this endangered bird, and the traditional boat builders on Man-O-War Cay. Generations of craftspersons practice the boat-building skills begun two centuries ago by their Loyalist ancestors.

Bimini is associated with Ernest Hemingway, who lived, wrote and brawled there. He also fished for big game, calling Bimini "the sports fishing capital of the world." Ponce de Leon stopped here during his quest for the Fountain of Youth, and legend has it that the Lost Continent of Atlantis lies somewhere off the Bimini coastline.

Among the most beautiful of all the Bahamian islands are the Exumas. These isles, with their crystal-clear waters in shades of jade, turquoise and opal, form the backdrop for not one, but two James Bond thrillers, Thunderball and Never Say Never Again. Here, you can visit the Bahamas first national park, Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, popular for boating, diving and bird watching. The park also offers opportunities to explore the rare native flora and fauna, including the endangered Bahamian iguana.

Eleuthera is known for the original settlement on the islands, as well as its famous namesake pineapples. Surfer's Beach attracts wave-catchers during the winter and spring months. Harbour Island is just one mile off Eleuthera's Northern coast. Only three-miles long and half-a-mile wide, it boasts sheltered coves, a three-mile beach of powdery, pink-sand beach and Dunmore, a quaint New England-style town with gingerbread houses and white picket fences. The best way to travel its narrow streets is via golf cart; you can rent one in town.

The Islands of the Bahamas are blessed with a rich history and culture, as well as great natural beauty and near-perfect weather. With the islands' easy accessibility, friendly people and value for the dollar, it's no wonder loyal vacationers return here year after year.

People-to-People

Some visitors to the Bahamas return with not only photos and mementos, but also new friendships.

The Ministry of Tourism sponsors the People-to-People Program, an opportunity for visitors to learn more about Bahamian culture by getting to know the locals.

Visitors are matched with more than 1500 Bahamian volunteers of similar ages and interests.

A day or evening activity such as boating, fishing, shopping at a local outdoor market or visiting in homes for a traditional meal is arranged.

This successful program has been in place for over 18 years.

Contact the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism at (242) 356-0435 at least two weeks in advance of your visit to make arrangements.

Newport Beach-based travel writer Patricia Lamb first visited the Bahamas during her university's spring break. She writes an online column about adventure travel at http://www.travelworldmagazine.com.