Three Days in Cayman

Ready for a Trip to Paradise? The Caribbean’s Best Awaits

Christopher Gil

You've finally decided to take the Caribbean vacation of your dreams. You are sitting on the turquoise water's edge, lost in what you think is reverie. But it is not. That is a school of electric-blue fish swimming nearby; that is the sun spreading a fiery orange over the horizon behind a sailboat; that is a sugary white-sand beach lapped by placid waters. This is Grand Cayman in the Western Caribbean. It's the clear choice. Take 3 days to enjoy life to its fullest, Caribbean-style.

Day 1: Hit the Beach

A quintessential Caribbean beach: water with varying hues of turquoise and chartreuse—warmed to 80 degrees and with few waves—cradled by powdery white sand. All you need is a loofah and you'd feel like you were in your own bathtub under a skylight.That describes Seven Mile Beach, action central of the Caymans and the place for you to spend Day 1 of your trip. It is actually not seven miles, but Seven Mile Beach sounded better than "Just under Six Mile Beach." A stroll down this glorious stretch reveals hotels and condominium complexes, although their limited size and scope shows the effective building constraints on the island. Once down the beach a bit, you will find stretches all to yourself. Dive in and take a swim to cool off.

What is the draw of Grand Cayman? Tourists are attracted by its proximity to the U.S. at only 500 miles, or an hour in the air, from Miami. Add to that a stable government that has no deficit spending, excellent communications, reliable electricity, an abundance of crystal-clear drinking water, little unemployment and an educated populace. All combine to make this the safest, best-run island in the Caribbean.

Christopher Columbus happened upon these islands in 1503, although only because a freak wind blew him off course on his way to Dominica. On May 10th, Columbus' son, Ferdinand, noted in his diary:"We were in sight of two very small and low islands full of tortoise as was the sea about, insomuch that they looked like rocks."It was for this reason that the islands were originally named "Las Tortugas," meaning "The Turtles." Soon thereafter, the named was changed to Caymanas, derived from a Carib Indian word for crocodile.Columbus encountered uninhabited islands.

The Cayman’s history of habitation dates back to the era of pirates and plunderers who, though they were a minority, are celebrated each October during Pirates Week. The island's majority of first settlers were a strong yet gentle people who led difficult lives as they attempted to coax sustenance from Cayman's inhospitable soil, which was rocky and sea-soaked. This forced the men out into the waters to catch fish and turtles, while their wives single-handedly raised their families and awaited their husbands' returns. Thus the creation of a self-reliant, independent people with a strong work ethic—all still evident today. These attributes led a young Cambridge-educated attorney named William S. Walker to set up one of the first law offices in the Cayman Islands in the mid-1960's. Though not long ago, the island had only six telephones and was nothing more than a small fishing village. Walker's early vision is apparent today as the island has become the world's fifth largest financial center with more than 550 banks and trust companies and more than $450 billion on deposit (about $18 million for every resident of the island) partly because of the island's bank-secrecy laws.

As you swim in the gentle waters of this paradise, it is easy to see what travelers from Columbus to Walker to the modern-day tourist have discovered in these magical islands. Relaxation is today's desired effect, and Seven Mile Beach is the prescription for health.Do take one modern-day precaution by liberally applying sunscreen. The Caymans are much closer to the equator than you think. You don't want to spend the next two days in a tub of ice!

Day 2: Rent a Car or Bike

Day 2 has you hitting the road via car or bike. You can even rent a scooter. Whatever your choice, 20-mile-long Grand Cayman is ready for you.The most popular tourist attraction is the Cayman Turtle Farm, located in the residential community of West Bay, which is north of Seven Mile Beach. Hunted for years, the area's turtle population has dramatically dwindled. In 1968, a marine biologist helped create a habitat to simulate the turtles' natural environment with eggs procured from around the Caribbean. Ten years later, farm-bred turtles were being released into local waters. Today, the Turtle Farm has a two-fold purpose: it is still a commercial enterprise providing the local market with edible produce (3,000 turtles per year); and it is a conservation center, replenishing the area's waters with hatchling and yearling turtles (4,000 turtles per year). The latter are tagged and numbered, thereby making it easier for researchers to study their migratory characteristics. About 100 circular tanks on the farm take you through the stages of development, from six-ounce turtles to 600-pounders that can have a lifespan as long as 100 years.

Also in West Bay is the town of Hell, where visitors can send their postcards with the "Hell" postmark, along with such pithy remarks as "I've been to Hell and back" or "Wish you were here!" There's more to Hell than just a postmark; nature has been at work here, too. Hell's intriguing rock formation, just behind the post office, resembles the charred remains of a fire. It is actually 1.5-million-year-old rock called ironshore. Looking like volcanic rock, this hard limestone has blackened over the years because of a surface coating of algae; the algae secrete acids that erode the rocks into unusual shapes.George Town is a great place to take a stroll or to explore by bike. Named after Britain's King George V, it is the island's center of finance, commerce and government.

To find out more about the island's history, head to the National Museum, an informative, low-key place located in an "upstairs house" on the waterfront. Nearby Fort Street is dominated by the Legislative Assembly building and National Heroes Circle, where a statue of James Manoah Bodden, fondly known as Mr. Jim, stands tall (you will notice the name Bodden, along with Ebanks, often as they are ubiquitous surnames in the Caymans). Town Hall, where public meetings are held, and a monument to King George V in the form of a Clock Tower are also in this area.Continue on to South Sound, just south of George Town, where the "hustle and bustle" of the city center are replaced by tropical trees and brightly colored flowers shading the beautiful seaside homes that dot the way. The infusion of capital into the Cayman Islands is most apparent here. Secluded beaches can be found along this part of the coast.Follow the road to the district of Bodden Town via car (too far for most people to bike), which consists of several small communities. In Savannah, look for Otto Watler's Bee Farm, where jars of his famous honey are for sale. In Newlands, you will find Pedro St. James Castle, the oldest extant structure in the islands at over 200 years old. First owned by William Eden, the edifice's original purpose is not clear. Next is Bodden Town, once the island's capital and currently home to a number of monuments: Gun Square, where an early British fort stood; Queen Victoria's Monument; and Slave Wall, constructed by slaves to ward off prospective foreign invaders. A bird sanctuary is just east of Bodden Town. Finally, the district's last town is Breakers, where you may catch a sight of famed resident Miss Nell, the post-mistress who also makes thatch baskets and hats. Sometimes she's out fishing instead. If you continue east on the south coast you will be in the East End, the oldest settlement on Grand Cayman, having been founded in the late-17th century by "Old Isaac" Bawden. Several legendary shipwrecks took place at this site, today evidenced by the Wreck of the Ten Sails Historic Park. Queen's View lookout point commemorates Queen Elizabeth II's visit to the island in 1983. Land turtles and iguanas are often sighted here.The main attraction of the East End is the Blow Holes, where caverns have been formed that shoot geysers of water into the air.

On the North Shore, in North Sound, you will find another of the island's main tourist attractions, Stingray City. Each afternoon you'll witness scores of divers frolicking with and feeding scores of stingrays, this underwater ballet taking place in a mere 12 feet of crystal-clear water. These comparatively docile creatures (unless you're foolish enough to grab their long, barbed tail!) are quite a sight on this sandspot where divers can get up close and personal with these fascinating sea creatures. The ritual started a decade ago when local fishermen cleaning their catch would find rays coming up for hand-outs. More and more rays started appearing, leading to this wondrous present-day phenomenon.Interestingly, most stingrays here are females; the males tend to stay in deeper waters. These tame animals are obviously appreciative of their free meal as them seem to kiss and cuddle the divers. You can even pet the rays—they feel like smooth velvet.

Day 3: Stay Poolside/Dive

Day 3 has you basking in the sun at your condo or resort. Sit by the pool, or head down to the nearby Caribbean to catch some rays (from the sun this time). An occasional cloud may sail by, but it simply provides a respite from the strong sun. Pamper yourself in true Caribbean style. Imbibe a cooling tropical drink. Sit beneath a palm tree as the zephyrs gently sway the fronds.For those seeking another adventure-filled day, snorkeling or diving are mandatory. The Cayman Islands are renowned for their amazing underwater activities. You can even take a trip in a glass-bottomed boat to get a view of what's going on down below.

The best snorkeling on the island is off the ironshore reef, which is within walking distance of George Town, and in the reef-protected shallows of the north and south coasts, where coral and fish are much more plentiful and diverse.Translucent waters and marine life protected by the government are what keep divers coming back to the Caymans. There are 30 dive operators with over 70 dive boats combined. They offer a diverse range of unforgettable diving experiences, with most sites being only ten to 20 minutes from any point of departure. Beginners are as welcome as advanced divers, and PADI certification is available.Whether you were lazy or adventurous on Day 3, make a point of taking in the sunset. An orange fire on the horizon burns off Seven Mile Beach as another blissful day in paradise drifts away. You can also take the Rum Point ferry, embarking from the Hyatt Regency Grand Cayman Resort & Villas at Britannia, for a sunset sail of glorious North Sound.

You may want to add any number of days to your Cayman vacation. Simply repeat Day 1, 2 or 3 in any combination—and enjoy life to its fullest. You'll never tire of majestic Cayman.

Managing Editor Christopher Gil has lounged on the beaches of Grand Cayman several seasons.