3 Central Europe Gems

Christopher Gil

Alpine villages sitting in verdant fields with a backdrop of jagged peaks. Architectural delights of diverse styles and hues. History changing as you turn every corner. This is what a trip to Central Europe offers in March, the time of my visit, when winter is being replaced by gradually warming days, crocuses popping up and, best of all, streets relatively devoid of other tourists. Heading from Munich to Salzburg to Prague, I experienced three incomparable Central European gems, as will you.

First stop: Munich, Germany

I started out my three-city trip in Munich, the heart of southern Germany’s Bavaria. I figured that this city would be pleasant enough, but more of a starting point for the rest of my vacation. I knew some of Munich had been destroyed in World War II, albeit a bit less than in other parts of Germany, plus I am persnickety when it comes to beer.

Was there a surprise awaiting me as my airport bus reached the city limits. Stately plazas were graced by impeccably restored edifices, vestiges of the War nowhere to be found. I found Bavarians to be warm, friendly and fun—and their famed beer hit my discriminating palate just right. There is a distinct charm to Germany’s most-livable, affluent city.

Munich embraces the visitor gently, revealing its vibrancy gradually as it ultimately creates a portrait that leaves an indelible impression in one’s thoughts.

A ring of bustling, traffic-laden streets surrounds the Old City, but a walk through any of the vestigial gates reveals the Munich of yesteryear. The heart of the Old City is the Marienplatz, graced by St. Peter’s Church and the gilded statue atop a pedestal at the center of the square. Here, you'll see the city’s primary tourist attraction, the Glockenspiel. For centuries, this clock’s figures have told their story several times a day (check the times on the sign hung on front of the church). There are two tiers, each telling a different story as the figures circle, some whirling for the rapt onlookers below. Another highlight of St. Peter’s is its wonderful gargoyles, some of human form. The usually playful figures—omnipresent on old European places of worship—are especially mischievous here.

For the best view of the environs, head to the top of St. Peter’s, where you’ll be treated to a panoramic vista of church steeples and umber-colored rooftops. Be sure to take in each vantage point to see the full lay of this land of 1.4 million denizens.

In the southeast corner of the Old City is Sendlingerstrasse. This serpentine street and its adjacent blocks contain the best shopping in town. Everything from clothing to interesting foodstuffs can be found in this area, along with an array of trendy restaurants. One building of note on Sendlingerstrasse is the Asam Kirche, unique in its cave-like design.

In the east-central quadrant of the Old City is the grandest boulevard in Munich, Maximilianstrasse. The street starts on the east from Max Joseph Platz, a cobblestoned square featuring the Opera House, the epitome of Bavarian Baroque architecture. I was lucky enough to see American superstar Renee Fleming in "Arabella" in this beloved venue, with its white and pink interior and large angel statues protectively peering down on all.

Maximilianstrasse eventually traverses the gently flowing Isar River via the Maximilian Bridge. The eastern side of the Isar is dominated by the impressive Parliament Building, sitting up high in all its majesty. Heading north, the parkland called Maximilian Analgen straddles the river, with nice views looking back across the river. An interesting walk from here is to continue north on the pathway nearest the Isar. Cross back to the west at the decorative Max Joseph Bridge and you are in the Englisher Garten, an expansive park that is the meeting grounds for the locals as it creates a bucolic ambience away from hectic city life. Concerts are held here at the Chinese Tower during the warm months. Pedestrian pathways crisscross the park, and there are plenty of open, green spaces to saunter.

Exiting the park on its west side, you will be in the wonderful neighborhood called Schwabing. This charming, monied area will give you a feel for a true Munich neighborhood. Stroll down the pleasant side streets that run perpendicular to the park to see the well-kept homes and small shops, then head to the main boulevard of Schwabing, Leopoldstrasse. This street leads through the University area, where graceful, old edifices still serve as venues for educating German youth.

A trip to Munich would not be complete without a visit to a hofbrau house. These restaurant-bars feature a monk-like experience, for you eat communally at lengthy, wooden tables. You can order some of that famed stout here, and you are sure to admire the stout barmaids who gingerly balance a number of glasses at a time to expedite service. The simply named Hofbrau House is the main tourist place, but if you prefer to be with the locals, head to any of the myriad other hofbrau houses that dot the city. Bavarians love their beer, and they love to have a good time. This is embodied by a hofbrau house—and there is no better place to gain an understanding of what it means to be Bavarian.

Next stop: Salzburg, Austria

Just across the German border, Salzburg was an hour-and-a-half train ride away, so I figured I would catch some sleep on this ride; however, that never occurred as I was too enthralled with the amazing landscape. The snow-capped Alps were the backdrop, with a foreground comprising small towns set amidst verdant fields. The towns had one constant—an onion-domed church rising above the town center.

As the train conductor advised us that the next stop was Salzburg, I turned my head to the right and was greeted by a sight I shall never forget. There was Salzburg, as charming a place as imaginable. Dissected by the Salzach River, one side of town is dominated by a castle sitting atop the Monchberg, a high mountain; a smaller, more forested mountain called Kapuzinerberg backs the other side of town. Salzburg may not have the grandest architecture in Europe, although it is certainly eye-pleasing, but the town’s topography is more striking than most European locales. The architecture is quaint and befits the place; there is a human scale to the town and this city of 144,000 beckons for exploration by foot. There are many cobble-stoned, pedestrian-only streets (look for “gasse” at the end of the street name), and a stroll along either bank of the Salzach and over its bridges is invigorating. The view from the bridge named Mozartsteg provides one of the best views.

Start your exploration of Salzburg at omnipresent Hohensalzburg Fortress, which is the largest citadel in Europe. Construction began in 1077 under Archbishop Gebhard and was not finished until the 17th century. You can walk to the top, though most choose to take the funicular ride. I did not find the ride that scary, though some fellow passengers were a bit nervous. Take half a day to enjoy the castle and imagine what life was like over the past ten centuries. Be sure to head to the tower for a spectacular view of the region. Lose yourself in the many historical rooms, which include: old instruments; historic coins; ceramic ovens; gilded-wood sleeping chambers; and a bird’s-eye view out of each tiny window as you ascend the staircases.

Salzburg is synonymous with composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and there are three tourist attractions of note in this regard. Firstly, visit Mozart’s Residence at Markart Square 8, where he lived from 1773-1780. A few blocks away is St. Sebastian’s Church, where in the backyard cemetery you will find the graves of some of Mozart’s family members. Also of note here is the Wolf Dietrich Mausoleum. He is entombed below the mausoleum; look below the grate, and drop a flower or schilling, as is the custom. Finally, head to Mozart’s Birthplace across the river, where he was born in 1756.

One of the finer architectural gems in Salzburg is The Residenz, which has served as the seat of the city’s archbishops since 1120. The building you encounter today was reconstructed in the early 17th century. The state rooms were furnished by Lukas von Hildebrandt a century later. The colorful frescoes, many of Alexander the Great, and ceiling paintings by J.M. Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte are of particular interest.

Getreidegasse is the most delightful of Salzburg’s pedestrian-only streets. This alley-like street features the quintessential store signs associated with Austria, arcing over the street in all of their gilded glory. Fine doorways, well-kept facades, idyllic courtyards and a church under the aegis of a sheer cliff at the far end of Getreidegasse round out this perfect stroll.

Other highlights of Salzburg include: Mirabell Gardens, graced by a museum, sculptures, stately trees and seasonal flowers; famed Collegiate Church, one of Europe’s most important sacred buildings, representing a synthesis of the major architectural systems; Gstattengasse for the bulk of the city’s nightlife; and Linzergasse, another charming, pedestrian-only shopping street.

Final stop: Prague, Czech Republic

I had to return to Munich from Salzburg via train, which I didn’t mind since the initial trip was so wondrous and I could now look out the other side of the locomotive. Back at the well-run Munich rail terminal, I boarded a train bound for the Czech Republic, a six-hour sojourn. The first half of the trip was in Germany, where the agrarian countryside provided a peaceful panorama. The second half was in the Czech Republic, where I expected to encounter nothing but Communist-era apartment blocks and industrial complexes. I serendipitously discovered a lovely countryside of interesting towns.

Arriving at night at the Prague train station was an eye-opener, its brightly lit, low, orange ceiling leading out to a taxi area featuring what are known as the most-corrupt cabbies in Europe. Having been forewarned (and having been born in New York City), I discounted the first cabby’s offer to go by the meter, since they can be fixed. He then quoted a set price of 750 koruna, but I knew that 250 was the expected rate to my hotel. I did find a gregarious taxi driver for 250 koruna, who proceeded to regale me with stories of being born in a Communist country that had transformed into a freewheeling, American-style capitalist system over the last decade. I tried to pay attention to the cabbie’s banter, but was easily distracted by the array of amazing buildings lit up against Prague’s night sky. "What’s that?" I wondered. "And what’s that over there?!" I could not wait to explore the next day.

Explore I did. I did so gladly, realizing that I was in one of the best-preserved, most architecturally diverse cities in Europe. The combination of being a one-time opulent land and the lack of wartime destruction, the latter a rarity in Europe, make Prague a traveler’s delight.

You can break up Prague into a trio of sections—Mala Strana, Castle (Hradcany) and Jewish Quarter/Old City (Josefov). I stayed in a small, family-run hotel in Mala Strana, the perfect neighborhood for seeing how the locals live. There is a hillside park featuring the Petrin Observation Tower, often compared to a mini Eiffel Tower, plus beautiful side streets leading to the banks of the Vltava River, which bisects Prague. Buildings of surprisingly bright hues stand next to centuries-old places of worship. Residents stroll down cobblestoned sidewalks, stop for coffee in the neighborhood cafes to take the chill off a late-winter morning and shop on the busier main boulevard of Karmel-litska. For one of the most grand strolls in Europe, a walk across the Charles Bridge, once in the day and once at night, is a must-do. There is a series of statues guarding each side of this 14-century bridge the locals call Karluv Most; be sure to rub the dog for luck on the statue near the center of the bridge.

North of Mala Strana is the Castle District. The enormous Castle sits atop a hill and presides over the city. On this picturesque walk, you’ll pass grand St. Nicholas Church, then head uphill past the posh Italian Embassy on Nerudova to reach the Castle.

The Castle takes days to explore, but you can see the four highlights by purchasing a pass that garners you admission to the Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, the Powder Tower and St. Vitus Cathedral. The latter features catacombs that are worth a descent.

To get to Josefhov, head north after traversing the bridge called Manesuv Most. This Jewish Quarter is the best preserved in Europe. In World War II, Adolf Hitler ordered that the district be preserved, for he wanted to have a history of the Jewish race. It is ironic that his desire created this open-air museum that visitors enjoy today. Featured are the Old-New Synagogue, which is about a millennium old, and a crammed cemetery teeming with headstone upon headstone. The little alley streets of Josefhov are great to explore.

Just southeast of this area, down Parizska, is the Old Town Square. Unlike much of Prague, this area is wide open, which is a good thing since it is a popular place for locals and visitors alike. The famed Astronomical Clock stirs the crowds below and in the outdoor cafes (with heat lamps in the winter). The statue at the center exudes a pathos that exemplifies the history of Prague.

Continue southeast and you’ll come to Wenceslaus Square. This long strip is presided over by a statue of King Wenceslaus, and the ornate National Gallery. Wenceslaus Square is of paramount import in the nation’s recent history. In 1968, this is where Soviet tanks quelled the populace’s uprising against Communism. This is commemorated by a monument to two of the victims of Communism, one of whom self-immolated on this spot. Wenceslaus Square is also where the Communists were thrown out of power in December 1989, shortly after the Berlin Wall had come down in neighboring Germany. Today, Wenceslaus Square is a bustling meeting ground, the center of the Czech Republic’s newfound entrepreneurial spirit.

Side trip 1: Germany’s Dachau: History Revisited

Never one to run from history, I felt a need to visit Dachau, a concentration camp, to better understand the atrocities of World War II committed by Hitler’s Nazis towards Jews, homosexuals, Gypsies and other “undesirables.” Dachau is 45 minutes northwest of Munich. You can get there on the S-2 subway line, transferring to the #724 or #726 bus once at the town of Dachau. The town itself is rather nondescript. I must admit I was surprised how close to town the concentration camp was located.

On the site of a munitions plant, I was shocked that Dachau did not encompass much land, for I knew that over 200,000 people had gone through its gates from 1933-1945. These gates are still in place, with their inscription translating "Work Will Set You Free." At the height of the war, an unbelievable 78,000 prisoners came here in 1944 alone. Over its existence, more than 30,000 people died on these grounds.

I would suggest viewing the 25-minute film that is offered in English several times daily. Also, study the thorough, edifying chronicle of the rise of Nazism that the museum houses. There are a few extant barracks to see, with their three-tiered bunks, lockers and communal showers/bathrooms. One of the barracks features intact cells and a torture chamber. Of note are the symmetrical rows of poplar trees, which were planted by prisoners during the War. You can also view the crematorium and the never-used shower/gas chamber.

On a positive note are the Jewish, Protestant and Catholic tributes to the dead, and the amazing sculpture gracing the courtyard, with its inscription, "Never Again."

Dachau is a sobering experience, but I did leave with hope. I was impressed that the camp has been preserved as a museum; I was especially pleased to see the scores of German schoolchildren on field trips to this museum. There is a lesson for us all to learn at Dachau.

Side trip 2: Austria’s St. Gilgen: The Hills Are Alive

A fun sidetrip from Salzburg is to the Salzkammegut, the mountainous region to the east of the city. This is the land of "The Sound of Music" fame, with "Sound of Music" tours being offered.

I chose to go on my own, taking a 45-minute bus ride via the Yellow/Red inter-city Postbus at Mirabellplatz, with my final destination being St. Gilgen.

This quaint Alpine village sits on the banks of the deep-blue Wolfgansee, ringed by the Alps. En route, you will be enchanted by the villages, verdant fields and lakes of the Salzkammergut, a playground for Austrians.

Once you’ve reached your destination, you’ll find St. Gilgen to be quiet in winter. There is a gondola for skiing atop its peaks, but other Austrian ski resorts in the southwest offer better skiing and are more popular. St. Gilgen is more of a summer resort, when boats take to the waters of the Wolfgansee, sharing the lake with swimmers and water-skiers.

I found a peacefulness to this Alpine village in winter, the snowcapped peaks framing the town square with its charming Rauthaus (City Hall) and quaint shops. There was one shop on the square that sold only two items, shoes and Schnapps (I was left to speculate what that incongruous mix was all about.) Hospitable Austrians selling their wares ran most of the small shops that were open. Of note is the lace for which the country is renowned.

You can take a walk on the path that rings the lake, panoramic vistas changing at every turn. St. Wolfgang is on the other side of the Wolfgangsee.

The only real tourist attraction in St. Gilgen is the birthplace of Mozart’s mother and sister. Even though he was not born in St. Gilgen, I was left to wonder if Mozart’s music was inspired by his visits to the Salzkammegut. Come to this famed region and be inspired for yourself.

Christopher Gil is Managing Editor of ASU Travel Guide