Japan

Patricia Earnest

Just mention Japan and the mind quickly conjures up visions of elegantly roofed temples and shrines, magnificent Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, dainty geishas, stepping lightly on thick-soled shoes, gardens of artfully placed sand and rocks, and an altogether different culture.

In crowded Tokyo and other heavily populated cities, dark-suited men bustle busily in the streets. The Japanese equivalent of fast-food restaurants offer delicacies on every corner, but don't be fooled into thinking that Japan's culture has become fully Westernized. Superficially, yes, it has in some ways; however, venture away from the industrialized centers and you will find another less scrutable Japan. Japan in the 21st century is a bustling, densely populated country, but it is still possible to get away from its crowds, to be in the midst of tranquil beauty and experience the complexities and traditions of this intriguing nation.

Temples and Shrines

Home to over 2,000 temples and shrines, several palaces and peaceful Zen gardens, Kyoto (pronounced Kee-oh-toe) is a fascinating blend of the old, the very old and the new. CRane your neck skywards and you will see skyscrapers and modern buildings; look around and you will discover treasures such as the Gion District with its distinctive wooden houses, cobbled streets and meandering streams. Nestled in the foothills of mountains on three sides, Kyoto hosts around 40 million visitors a year, who come to see 20% of Japan's National Treasures and 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Kyoto served as Japan's capital from 794-1868, the city being the seat of government and official residence of the imperial family. Kyoto experienced frequent turmoil with struggles for power between emperors and shoguns, rivalries between worshippers of Buddha and of Shinto. Between periods of war, the arts managed to flourish with famous landscape paintings, development of the classic Noh drama theater, flower arranging (ikebana) and the tea ceremony. Gardens were designed during the Muromachi Period (1333-1568), as were a number of renowned monuments.

With so many temples and shrines to visit, it is useful to be able to make the distinction between the two: temples are for Buddhists; shrines are for followers of Shinto. Temples generally have four gates, to the north, south, east and west; shrines have a single main entry gate, shaped somewhat like the Greek letter pi. The roofs of temples are hipped, while those of shrines are gabled. Shinto existed in the country prior to the advent of Buddhism around 552 Shinto is difficult to define, since it does not have a "bible" or a defined set of beliefs; rather, it sees all living things and matter as having a spiritual side. Ancestors are revered and remembered with offerings.

Sanju-sangen-do Temple, a short stroll from Kyoto Station, is one of the older wooden structures. Originally built in 1164, it was reconstructed in 1266 after the first structure burned to the ground. The main building houses 1,001 statues of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Each unique statue has a great many arms, making it a most impressive sight. The main hall is about 328-feet long, and an adjacent hall is the site of an annual archery contest where competitors see how many arrows they can rapidly shoot from one end to the other.

During the Spring and Fall, some temples and shrines are illuminated at night to show off tree and shrub foliage against the graceful architecture. Several temples offer Zen meditation for visitors. Check with the Japan Tourist Office for opening times and meditation hours for individual temples and shrines.

Near Gifu, Kanazawa is worth a visit for its Myoryu-ji Temple, also known as the "Ninja Temple" because of its many trap doors and tricky architectural quirks. While in Kanazawa, visit peaceful Kenroku-en Garden, rated one of the three best in Japan. A large lake anchors the middle of the garden with ancient cherry and other trees gracing the banks.

Kimonos and Geishas

Gion is the entertainment section of Kyoto and here you will find geishas, teahouses, and historic, wooden homes on quaint, cobbled streets. Try to walk along Shirakawa Minami-dori for a wonderful feel of this area. Some businesses offer a kimono-dressing service.

This is quite a feat, for you must have help to manage all the complicated tucks and layers of cloth that make up these beautiful garments. While you are visiting, look around at the design of the traditional house with moveable tatami mats made from rush grass growing near rivers. Clay walls are moveable and sections of the floor hide storage areas for sleeping materials, creating an airy, uncluttered feel.

Cultural Activities

Kabuki theater was first performed by females about 400 years ago, then young males, followed by older males, who created a serious art form. Kabuki uses opulent sets and music and is performed with great drama. The Minami-za Theater in the Gion District of Kyoto is the oldest in Japan.

Noh, on the other hand, could be called Zen minimalist theater. Older than Kabuki, masks are used to portray emotions. The stage is sans decoration save for the representation of a tree to the rear. The performances rely heavily on mime to put forth the drama of the action, so much is left to the audience's imagination. Even if you can't follow the story line, you will soon pick up clues such as stamping feet to indicate rage. Some performances provide an English translation via headphones; some theaters offer abbreviated versions for visitors.

Gifu Prefecture in Japan's heartland is where you will find many of Japan's such famous handicrafts as pottery, paper, sword making and ceramics-still produced via centuries-old techniques. Easily accessible from Tokyo, Nagoya or Osaka, fly to Nagoya and Gifu, the capital city, is just over a one-hour bus ride away. Even quicker is the train from Tokyo, Osaka or Nagoya.

Gifu City is known for its paper lanterns, some designed by the late Noguchi. Visit Ozeki & Co. and you can watch artisans construct and hand paint the lanterns and paper umbrellas with bamboo ribs. Visitors will also have an opportunity to shop for many traditional, and also unusual, designs of lanterns and fans.

Visit Tajimi, in the western part of Gifu Prefecture, for its famous Mino Ware pottery and ceramist, Mr. Osamu Suzuki. He is deemed a "Living National Treasure." Ceramic businesses abound and a must-see is the Museum of Modern Ceramic Art nestled in the nearby mountains, where you can not only see outstanding examples of contemporary ceramics, but can also enjoy an elegant tea ceremony at Oribe Square in the museum compound. A unique feature of this museum is the "floating" second story, which protects the precious artifacts from Japan's numerous earthquakes.

Since 80% of the prefecture is covered by forests, it will be no surprise that the people of the region are skilled wood craftspersons. Particularly in the northern Hida Region, you will find Hida Shunkei lacquerware and items made from the local yew. Incidentally, stages of the popular Noh theaters are usually constructed with cypress from this region. Mino is known not only for its ceramics, but also for paper. The paper-making process requires much pure water; the clean, clear streams and rivers in Gifu Prefecture can readily satisfy this demand. Visit the Mino Washi Paper Museum and you can make your own paper. Helpful paper workers stand by to patiently guide visitors in the process. Make paper and take home your own creation, or buy already made sheets and products. Japanese use paper not only for lighting but also for folding screens, as well as writing and gift-wrap products.

Seki has been known for about 700 years for its excellent metal products. Raw materials are key to the metal-working process: soil for tempering; and pure water and charcoal for heat. Skilled craftspersons are also needed to work the products. All of these are still plentiful in the Gifu Region. Decorative swords are manufactured these days, but craftspersons still demonstrate the process of heating the metal and beating it into shape. It's amazing to watch the almost-molten steel glow red from the fire, to be beaten by the skilled metal smiths and folded under their blows to strengthen the final product. Sparks fly dramatically in all directions as the workers pound in unison between heatings of the metal.

Nowadays, knives and various types of cutlery are the main products. Many are for sale and you can see fine swords and various warrior implements on display. Japanese buy swords to celebrate a child's birth or a wedding; these swords can be pricey.

Other places of interest in the area include the small town of Takayama. Its Morning Market is well worth a visit, though you should arrive early as it can be over by 11am, as is the Kusakabe Folk Art Center. The charming town features traditional houses, cobbled streets and a central, clear stream. Many beautiful temples surrounded by trees and flowers are situated within easy walking distance of Downtown. Try the delicious local sake and fabulous Hida beef, generously marbled for melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and selling for as much as $100 per ounce, depending on the quality.

Listed as a World Cultural Heritage site, the village of Shirakawa-go is known for its multi-storied, A-framed farmhouses, constructed to house extended families. One house near the start of the village is open to the public, free of charge.

Castles

Between Tajimi and Gifu sits Inuyama Castle, built on a high bluff overlooking the Kiso River and surrounding farming country. Built in 1537, it is the only privately owned castle in Japan and is one of four castles designated as National Treasures. Its dramatic location and excellent renovation make it well worth a visit.

Cormorant Fishing

The rivers in the heartland of Japan run clear and swift, with sweet-tasting waters. One of the local tourist attractions in this region is the nighttime cormorant fishing. Persons who are fishing place lanterns on their boats and catch fish with the aid of cormorants, around whose long necks are placed rings. These birds dive for fish, catch them in their bills and bring them back to their owners, unable to swallow the fish and pass them beyond the restricting ring. The birds must ultimately get a reward as I am sure they would otherwise tire of this frustrating task.

Japan offers much for the visitor interested in going beyond such large cities as Tokyo and Osaka. Inter-city transportation by air and rail is rapid and efficient, as are local buses. Before you go, pick up a copy of the Japanese National Tourist Organization's pocket guide Tourist's Language Handbook, which offers tips for traveling around and denotes key phrases which will make your interactions with locals go smoothly.

Patricia Earnest has traveled extensively and writes about worldwide destinations for a variety of publications.