Rome’s Trastevere

Martha Miller

Trastevere, which translates “Across the Tiber River,” was once considered the outskirts of Rome. Allowed to develop its own flavor and now part of il centro storico, it is the perfect place to glimpse a bit of the Old World while still enjoying the lifestyle of today’s Romans.

Often described as bohemian, homes bedecked with flower boxes and clinging ivy intertwine with coffee bars, restaurants and unique boutiques. Buildings in terracotta, maize and wine cast a glow, like a daylong sunset. From the cobblestone streets to the overhanging laundry lines, senses are pleasantly awakened with every step.

Equidistant from the Colosseum and the Vatican, Trastevere is an ideal place to make a home base. If arriving at Fumicino Airport, save a bundle by taking the train from inside the airport to Stazione Trastevere (5 euros versus 45 euros for a taxi) and from there catch a cab to your hotel. For those arriving at Termini, the main train station, a 14 euro cab fare is about right.

While Trastevere is charming, the winding streets can be confusing. A detailed map may be included in your travel book, but, if not, it is well worth spending another few euros to save time and limit frustration.

Start your visit at the outdoor mercato at Piazza San Cosimato, located one block from Via San Francesco a Ripa. Tented booths display a bounty of tantalizing fruits and vegetables. Observe the locals buying the freshest ingredients for the day’s meals and then carrying it all home in their trailing, two-wheeled shopping carts. Vendors open their stalls around 8:00am and close at 2:00pm.

Trasteverini take full advantage of Rome’s temperate climate. It is common to spot a signora snapping peas and taking in the morning sun on a chair just outside her doorway. Later in the afternoon, two blocks away, men in Piazza San Calisto set up folding tables among the cobblestones to play card games, oblivious to the cars squeezing in around them.

The most popular gathering place in the area is Piazza Santa Maria. Dating back to the 3rd century, the church of Santa Maria is the oldest in all of Rome. Take note that there are no fewer than 80 churches named for the revered Santa Maria in Rome. Visitors come to view the gleaming mosaics by Pietro Cavallini; they then linger on the steps of the octagonal fountain to people-watch and enjoy an aperitif at Caffè Di Marzio.

Saturdays ensure a wedding, or two, will take place. Tradition dictates all guests and members of the wedding party must wait outside the church to see the bride arrive. It is a treasured moment that no Italian wants to miss.

If it is Friday morning, you might see the local arrotino (knife sharpener) pedal by on his bicycle, replete with whetstone. His distinctive bellow signals the building’s tenants to lower a basket from their window with cutlery in need of honing.

In late afternoons, it is common to take a passeggiata (evening walk). Arched doorways, climbing ivy and pathways closed to traffic provide a relaxed setting for strolling. Children gather to play in the piazzas and neighbors catch up on the latest news. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere could be called the piazza that never sleeps: street performers entertain the crowds into the wee hours with music, fire juggling, acrobatics and comic skits.

At dusk, in adjacent Piazza Sant’ Egidio, artisans and vendors set up tables to sell crafts, jewelry, candles and more. A former convent turned museum, Sant’Egidio’s Museo del Folklore is highlighted by exhibits portraying more recent Roman life. One example is a photo display of the era of “La Dolce Vita” and moviemaking in the 1950’s; incidentally, if in need of a little cinematic therapy, the Pasquino theater opposite the museum features English-language movies.

Through Piazza Sant’Egidio, veering to the right you will arrive at Caffè del Cinque (Vicolo del Cinque 5), a bar situated at the intersection of five streets; this is the ideal place for an early morning coffee, afternoon aperitif or late-night cocktail. Sit at a table outside if you dare, for passing cars are within arm’s reach.

Food in Italy is arguably the best in the world; fortunately, in Trastevere you can eat well and cheaply at the local hangouts. One favorite is Da Corrado (Via della Pelliccia, 39), just a few steps down from Caffè del Cinque. Da Corrado is a no-frills establishment, where ambience comes from the clientele and the waitstaff. Try the involtini, thinly sliced meat wrapped around vegetables and mozzarella. To avoid a long wait, arrive before 8:30pm and take a good look at the menu posted outside before you sit down, for there are no menus inside. If you hesitate, the waiter will decide for you.

For a cozy dinner, visit Il DuCa (Vicolo del Cinque, 56), where the woodburning pizza oven and rustic surroundings, not to mention the tasty pizza, will make you glad you came. Only one street over, Il Conte di Montecristo (Vicolo del Bologna, 89a) serves up a mouthwatering swordfish, among other specialties. After your meal, sip an icy limoncello, purported to aid digestion.

Moving down Vicolo del Cinque, look for little-known gems such as Jacche Calzature, a funky store offering sample shoes and those worn in fashion shows for a hard-to-believe price of simply 31 euros a pair. Outfitting women and men, there are two locations, both in Trastevere: Vicolo del Cinque 24/b and Via Benedetta 9. During the winter-clearance sale, boots sell as low as 15 euros a pair.

In keeping with the area’s authenticity as a real neighborhood, plastic likenesses of David and glittery miniature Colosseums are absent; instead, unique shops echo the artisans of the Roman Empire. Turn right at the end of Vicolo del Cinque and make time to visit Polvere di tempo (Via del Moro, 59) where the unifying theme is, well…time. Interesting curios include handcrafted hourglasses, sundials, globes and kaleidoscopes. The giant 18-hour hourglass alone is worth the trip.

If you find yourself longing for some English reading material, the Almost Corner Bookshop (Via del Moro, 45) carries all types of books and an especially good selection of historical and fictional titles.

Backtrack a short distance to Ferrara, (Via del Moro 1/a-Piazza Trilussa 41). Upscale best describes this gourmet food/wine shop and restaurant. A gift-boxed, 100-year-old bottle of balsamic vinegar will set you back about 270 euros. For the rest of us, there are reasonably priced Italian specialties including capers, olives, pesto and tomato sauces. Prices range from .70 euros for a chocolate to 900 euros for a rare bottle of wine.

Ambling up the street behind Piazza Trilussa, be sure to stop in at Checco (Via Benedetta, 7), a favorite coffee bar of the locals, for an espresso and cornetto (pastry). Try the pine-nut torta for something special; if chocolate is your thing, you won’t be disappointed with the thick, steamy chocolato caldo. Go ahead and splurge a little when asked if you want it con panna (with whipped cream on top).

For excellent pizza by the slice, exit Checco and turn left continuing straight to find La Boccaccia (Via di Santa. Dorotea, 2). This is more an eat-and-run type of place, but is definitely worth finding if for no other reason than to sample the potato and cheese combination. Delizioso.

For a light lunch, cafes and bars feature tramazzini, which make for a delicious, economical meal. These white-bread sandwiches are cut crosswise and have various fillings. Pull up a chair at Caffe Settimiana (corner of Vicolo della Scala and Via di Santa Dorotea) and enjoy lunch while taking in a closeup view of Porta Settimiana, a gate in the Aurelian Wall dating back to 1498. Follow the straight road that starts on the other side, Via della Lungara, and it will lead you to the Vatican: a brisk walk will have you there in about 25 minutes.

With a multitude of churches just steps apart, one can easily compare different influences. Aiming away from the Aurelian Wall and ambling up Via della Scala, visit Santa Maria della Scala for a rich taste of Baroque design. The simple façade gives no clue to the heavy ornamentation inside. For dinner, wander the back streets beyond Vicolo della Scala to find small but stellar restaurants such as Trattoria “da Lucia” (Vicolo del Mattonato, 2). After dinner, stop for gelato at Gelateria alla Scala (Via della Scala 51), which prides itself on using only natural ingredients.

For a spectacular view of Rome, head up to Mount Janiculum. You will pass the church of San Pietro in Montorio, which is built on the site where Saint Peter was crucified and is famous for its cloister and artwork, including Bramante’s Tempietto. A bit farther uphill is Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, a grandiose fountain dating to 1612. Across from the fountain and next to the Spanish Embassy is a photo op not to be missed. Numerous domes dot the urban vista and on a clear day at the right time of year you can observe Colli Albani, the sometimes snowcapped hills behind Rome. Other easy-to-spot points of interest are Palazzo Venezia and Castel Sant’Angelo.

If you want to get a workout or just need to get in touch with nature, the park at Villa Pamphili, farther up Mount Janiculum, is the place to be. Void of tourists, the running/walking/ biking trail draws the area’s denizens. During the weekdays, grandparents pushing strollers are common; on weekends, couples and families arrive to picnic and exuberantly cheer soccer games. Water pours continuously from fountains here-as in most of Rome. Refill a bottle without worry, as it is clean and safe to drink unless posted signs say otherwise. To do as the Romans do, place your finger over the waterspout to redirect the flow to the small hole on top, then quench your thirst straight from the resulting mini geyser.

Bargain hunters will be happy to know about the Porta Portese flea market. Located off Viale Trastevere, beginning at the corner of Via Portuense and Via Ippolito Nievo, the savvy shopper can stock up on items old and new, including picture frames, prints, jewelry, trendy clothing and many more good buys. Go early to avoid the crowds (hours are Sundays 6:30am-2:00pm).

For a genuine look at how today’s Romans live, visit Trastevere. It will be the most memorable part of your journey.

A resident of Syracuse, New York, Martha Miller was fortunate enough to live in Trastevere for two years.